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Professor Alison Goodrum

Professor Alison Goodrum is responsible for leading and managing research at NUA. This includes: the implementation of the University’s research strategy; the Chairing of the University’s Research Committee (RC) and Research Degrees Committees (RDC); the co-ordination of NUA’s postgraduate research provision; the delivery of the University’s submission to the Research Excellence Framework (REF) and the mentoring of academic colleagues. In her role, Professor Goodrum also pursues a programme of personal research relating to her subject expertise in fashion theory and dress history.

Research & Practice

Having trained initially as a cultural geographer, my approach to the study of clothing is interdisciplinary and borrows from dress history, fashion theory, anthropology and sociology. I earned my PhD on constructing – and constructions of – ‘Britishness’ in/through contemporary fashion in 2001, and my book, The National Fabric (Bloomsbury, 2005), elaborates and extends that work.

Latterly, I have developed my interest in rural clothing, both past and present. I have carried out ethnographic research projects on contemporary rural lifestyle, examining the uses of the past by ‘heritage brands’ and their associated style tribes. I have also carried out archive projects that consider the history of rural clothing and, in particular, equestrian dress and its related material and visual culture. Most of my archive work has drawn on Collections in the USA with a focus on the Interwar period, American sportswear, vacation dress and the designer Elizabeth Hawes (1903-1971). This has been supported through a number of funded visits and fellowships, including: a Viva Foundation Fellowship at the Autry Center, Los Angeles; John H Daniels Fellowship at the National Sporting Museum, Virginia; Visiting Fellowship, Bard Graduate Center, New York. See: ‘Blogs On Togs: Dress History Research in an Overseas Archive’

I have side interests in hat-pins, millinery, rosettes and badges, as well as stains, smells and signs of wear, tear and decay.

As part of my academic citizenship, I review book proposals for Bloomsbury and Routledge and serve on the editorial boards of various academic journals. I have presented my research at international academic conferences, have contributed to media broadcasts as an expert advisor and I have been invited by learned societies to speak about my work in public lecture series. I am a Research Associate with the International Sport and Leisure History Research (SpLeisH) Team at Manchester Metropolitan University.

  • 2017: ‘Book Review: Georgian Trick Riders in Wild West Shows’ Sport In History
  • 2016:: ‘The Dress Issue, Part Two: Introduction’, Annals of Leisure Research, Vol. 19 (3): 1-3.
  • 2016:: ‘The Dress Issue: Introduction’, Annals of Leisure Research, Vol. 19 (2): 145-161.
  • 2016:: ‘The Style Stakes: Fashion, Sportswear and Horse-Racing in Interwar America’ in Williams, J. (ed.) Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body Routledge.
  • 2015:: ‘Riding Dress History, With A Twist: The Side Saddle Habit And The Horse During The Early Twentieth Century’ in Carr, N. (ed.) Domestic Animals and Leisure, Palgrave Macmillan.
  • 2015 – 17:‘Hatpins’ contribution in Josey, H. ‘Hats Amazing: Uncovering Hats, Memories and Interests’, Temporary exhibition at Stockport Hat Works Museum,
  • 2014: ‘The Style Stakes: Fashion, Sportswear and Horseracing in Interwar America’ Sport in History, Vol. 34 (3): 20-46.
  • 2014: ‘The Field as Mall: Redressing the Rural-Urban Divide in Fashion Theory Through Equestrian Events’ reproduced as ‘benchmark text’ in Hillyard, S. ed. Approaches to Fieldwork Sage (with K. Hunt).
  • 2014: ‘A dashing, positively smashing, spectacle…: Female spectators and dress at equestrian events in the United States during the 1930s’ Laing, J. and Frost, W. (eds.) Fashion, Design and Events Routledge: London.
  • 2013: ‘The Field as Mall: Redressing the Rural-Urban Divide in Fashion Theory Through Equestrian Events’ Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, Special Issue on Place, Time and Identity, 4 (1&2): 17-42 (with K. Hunt).
  • 2013: ‘New Urbanities’ chapter in Molloy, M. and Larner, W. Fashioning Globalization: New Zealand Design, Working Women and the ‘New Economy’ Wiley-Blackwell: RGS-IBG Book Series (with M. Molloy and W. Larner).
  • 2012: ‘A Severity of Plainness: The culture of female riding dress in America during the 1920s and 1930s’ Annals of Leisure Research, 15 (1): 87-105.
  • 2011: ‘Framing Rural Fashion: Observations from Badminton Horse Trials’ Journal of Visual Communication, 10 (3): 287-322 (with K. Hunt).
  • 2011: ‘Clothes Maketh the Horsewoman’ The National Sporting Library and Museum Newsletter No. 98, Winter 2010/1.
  • 2011: ‘Geographies of fashion: The case for intellectual bricolage and a geography of (rural) fashion’ in Futurescan – Mapping the Territory Fashion and Textile Colleges Association. ISBN: 978 1 907382 30 7.
  • 2010: ‘New Zealand Designer Fashion’ in World Encyclopaedia of Dress and Fashion: Australasia and Pacific Volume Berg: Oxford pp. 310-316.
  • 2010: ‘Why does the UK not have a national dress?’ in World Encyclopaedia of Dress and Fashion: Western Europe Volume Berg: Oxford pp. 22-24
  • 2009: ‘True Brits: Authenticity and Authorship in Anglo-Japanese Fashion Exports’ Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, UnAustralia special issue, 13(4): 461-479.
  • 2008: ‘British and UnBritish Fashion: Authenticity and Authorship in Anglo-Japanese Fashion Exports’ Extract reproduced as chapter in The Fashion Industry: Trends and Scope, ICFAI University Press: Pune, India.
  • 2008: ‘Rising Sun, Setting Trends: British Fashion In, and for, Japan’ in Jaffe, J. and Johnson, H. (eds.) Performing Japan: Contemporary Expressions of Cultural Identity Global Oriental: London pp. 295-316.
  • 2007: ‘Book Review: Fashion’s World Cities’ Gender Place and Culture: A Journal of Feminist Geography 14 (5) pp.617-625.
  • 2007: ‘Globalization, Cultural Economy and Not-so-Global Cities: The New Zealand Designer Fashion Industry’, Environment and Planning D: Society and Space 25 pp. 381-400 (with M. Molloy and W. Larner).
  • 2007: ‘Wear in the world? Auckland’s designer fashion industry’ Extract reproduced as chapter in Welters, L. and Lillethun, A. (eds.) The Fashion Reader Berg: Oxford pp. 185-190 (with M. Molloy and W. Larner).
  • 2005: The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization Berg: Oxford (243 pages)
  • 2005: ‘Exhibition Review: Flaunt: Art/Fashion/Culture’ Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 9 (1) pp.89-94.
  • 2004: ‘Wear in the world? Auckland’s designer fashion industry’ in Carter, I., Craig, D, Matthewman, S. (eds.) A Sociology of Auckland Dunedin: Dunmore Press (with M. Molloy and W. Larner) pp. 257-274.
  • 2004: ‘Exhibition Review: The First New Zealand Fashion Week’ Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 8 (1) pp.99-104.
  • 2001: ‘Fashioning new forms of consumption: The case of Paul Smith’ in Bruzzi, S. and Church-Gibson, P. (eds.) Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explanations, Analysis London: Routledge pp.25-48 (with L. Crewe).
  • 2001: ‘Land of hip and glory: Fashioning the ‘classic’ national body’ in Keenan, W. (ed.) Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part Oxford: Berg pp.85-104.
  • Editorships

  • 2013 – present: Editorial advisory board member of academic journal, Annals of Leisure Research, Taylor and Francis
  • 2013 – present: Editorial board member of academic journal, Clothing Cultures, Intellect publishers
  • 2009-14: UK editor (with US editor, Kim Johnson, University of Minnesota) ‘Understanding Fashion’ series, Bloomsbury publishers, London
  • 2006 – present: Editorial board member of academic journal International Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Emerald
  • 2003 – 2003: Co-editor of journal Context: Dress/Fashion/Textiles of the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand
  • External Examining

  • 2013 – 17: External examiner at University of Brighton, School of Humanities, BA Hons Fashion and Dress History
  • 2009 – 13: External examiner at Southampton Solent University, Faculty of Creative Industries and Society, BA Hons Fashion Programme
  • Memberships and Awards

  • 2014 – 17: Panel member (and Chair), Lord Aberdare Literary Prize, British Society of Sport Historians
  • 2010 – 14: Peer Review College Member, Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)
  • 2009: Emerald Literati Network, ‘Outstanding Reviewer’ Award, services to the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management
  • 2007: Fellow of the Higher Education Academy (FHEA)
  • 2002 – 03: Vice-President, New Zealand Costume and Textile Society